Dark Asian hair needs to be bleached to dye it any other color other than brown. And when it comes to Asian hair, you can’t beat Asian products, which is why Japanese bleaches are particularly effective, especially since Asian hair is thicker than other ethnicities. While formulated primarily for Japanese users, they place minimal stress on hair and can also be used with other hair types, and often come packaged with hair care products to treat your hair after bleaching.
We tested each product for the following:
Miyuki Okishima is a hairstylist and makeup artist who's also an active hair diagnostician, providing expert advice on how to care for your hair. After working as a deputy manager at a beauty salon in Tokyo, she became heavily involved as a freelance hairstylist for magazines, theatrical performances, and weddings. She also works as an advisor for magazines, online shows, and hair product manufacturers. Additionally, Miyuki is also engaged in styling the elderly and for those with disabilities, in addition to promoting medical wigs.
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Japanese hair bleaches are formulated with the intent of being used primarily on dark, thick, Asian hair. On average, Asian hair is typically thicker than Caucasian or African hair in terms of diameter, as well as has a thicker layer of cuticles, requiring stronger bleaches to penetrate the cuticles. If you've ever found western brands of hair bleach to be too weak, requiring several coats of bleach to get the lightness you desire, then Japanese hair bleach may do the trick.
Japanese hair bleach manufacturers often formulate their products with ingredients that help minimize damage or even nourish your hair. These boxes of Japanese hair bleach can even come packaged with hair treatment products intended for use after you bleach your hair, so there's no need to go out and get some if you don't have any!
Japanese hair bleach can come as a cream, mist, or powder. They’ve all got things they’re better and worse at, which we'll go over in this section.
The thinner a cream is in texture, the easier it’ll be to bleach long, think hair. Some cream products will come in a bottle topped with a comb-shaped nozzle, so application becomes as simple as dragging a comb through your hair.
You may sometimes come across products that are made up of three parts: formula 1, formula 2, and bleach powder. Bleach powder is largely made up of persulfates–two examples are ammonium persulfate and potassium persulfate. These help along chemical reactions and serve to strip your hair of even more color.
Some cream bleaches have a soft consistency, so if you prefer your hair bleach to be softer or have long hair, products with a comb-shaped nozzle are easy to use since you can apply the bleach as if you're combing your hair.
However, power always comes with a price. Because powdered bleach is so strong, it deals a lot of damage to both your hair and scalp. If you do decide to purchase powdered bleach, see if you can find one that includes moisturizing and restorative ingredients. It won’t prevent the damage, but it can help minimize it.
Finally, not all powdered bleach works the same. Depending on the specific formulation, some lines and brands can be more effective than others. If you want a dramatic change, you should still take a look at reviews and determine how well a product is going to work before purchasing.
Like creams, powder bleaches require you to mix the product with a hydrogen peroxide solution, turning it into a cream-like consistency. However, they can be more watery than cream bleaches, so be careful of any running bleach.
Every home bleaching kit will differ in content, but try to get one that includes some kind of treatment or serum. Some even offer treatment that will last you a few uses, so check how much product you’re getting as well.
If you’ve set your sights on a kit that doesn’t provide anything in the way of care, then purchase something on your own–but do not just leave your hair as is and assume everything will work itself out.
Bleaches can significantly damage your hair, so always treat it afterward. Some boxes include hair treatment products that can be used multiple times, so it's good to consider how much treatment is included.
※Manic Panic’s White Bomb is produced in Japan and is thus included on this list.
It came with no treatment–you’ll have to purchase things separately so you can trim and apply masks and do everything you can to help your locks heal.
We tried out each of the 10 products and tested them for how much color they removed and how gentle they were. Then we gave each one a final grade.
We gathered the 11 most popular products on e-commerce sites that are popular in Japan, like Amazon, Rakuten, and @cosme Shopping, and tested them all.
First, we looked at each product's depigmenting power.
We followed all the instructions provided and bleached several samples of hair. We then ran the bleached samples through a machine that measures gloss. The more light a sample reflected, the “whiter” it was, and the better we judged it to be bleached. We also made sure to leave all the products in for the longest recommended time.
Generally, persulfates are listed in the ingredients list as bleach powder and hydrogen peroxide solutions as OX water. If you want something that’s really going to lighten your hair, see if you can ascertain whether you have a 3:1 ratio of OX water and bleach powder.
We attached a fine-toothed comb onto a machine that calculates friction. We then ran it through our samples of dyed hair and measured how much friction was produced.
We determined that less friction meant smoother hair and smoother hair meant less damage–therefore, products that produced low values received higher scores on this particular test.
Liquid paraffin’s an emollient. It’s often used in hand creams and lotions, as it coats skin (and hair!), making it feel soft and helping it retain moisture. Liquid isoparaffin acts in much the same way, coating strands of hair, smoothing down texture, and adding shine.
There are, of course, doubts as to how hydrating these ingredients are as they work by adding an oily surface over hair, rather than penetrating it with moisture. However, it did improve texture and shine, so if you’re really worried about damage, consider getting a bleach with paraffins, as well as purchasing a deep-moisturizing serum or treatment to use afterwards.
Next, apply bleach first to hair on the back of your head and at the nape of your neck. Product applied to your bangs and hair that grows at your temples and around your face heats up quite quickly, thanks to your body temperature. If you start off with those sections, they may end up lighter than the rest of your hair.
And before you even start the bleaching process, make sure you have enough bleach, especially if you have long or thick hair. Nothing ruins a finish more than running out of product, so as a precaution, we recommend preparing more boxes than you think you’ll need.
Now that you've bleached your hair, what's next? You now have the perfect canvas to color your hair in all colors, and if so, check out our article on Japanese hair dyes. You can also leave your hair simply bleached, too. In any case, what's important is that you take care of your hair with the proper shampoo and conditioner.
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